Today started off cold. When I woke up it was in the
50ís outside. By the time I got back from the bathroom, Dave was all packed
up and ready to go. We exchanged email addresses and wished each other good
luck. He is on his way to
City and the Top of the World Hwy.
After seeing Dave off I had to pay bills. I
had tried to last night, but the stupid websites were down for maintenance,
both Sprint and Wells Fargo. As the internet at the Caribou RV Park was not
very fast or reliable, it took awhile, but I got my bills paid.
Around this time it started to rain. I
still had to plan out gas stops, so I sat in my tent in the rain. The tent
did a good job, no water got in. When I had finished planning my stops I had
to pack, in the rain. I stayed in the tent and packed everything I could
(usually I do this outside). I
zipped everything up and put it on the picnic table. Then, in the rain, I
took down my tent. Everything was soaking wet, but I had to pack it up
anyway. In the end, most of my stuff, including me, got wet. I loaded up the
bike, put in my jacket liner, put on my BMW gloves, and headed out for gas.
I went to a Husky station near the airport
at Whitehorse. I got off the
bike, checked some stuff with my gear, and then went to pump gas. Oh yeah,
except the station was closed down! This has been one of the biggest issues
on this trip. Yes, there is gas at least every 50 miles or so. But is the
place open and in business? Who knows? I have taken to planning gas stops in
major cities only, and hopefully major cities close together as most of the
major cities consist of a quick stop gas station and a restaurant. So I plan
on riding about 150 to 200 miles and getting gas. If the major city is at
120, then I ride 120.
Ok, long story short, I get back on the
bike to go look for gas. I get to a Fas Gas just 2 doors down and fill up.
While filling the bike I meet a man with a trailer who has just come from
Tok. He says the roads are awful, but I should know that given the nature of
my trip. I hopped on the bike and rode away into the rain. It didnít rain
for too long today, but the road stayed wet. I did see a deer, two
chipmunk/squirrel thingys, and finally a black bear. The bear was in Haines
Junction. I turned the corner to head for Tok and passed by a construction
site. Walking down the road from the site was a black bear. I almost
stopped, but he was awful close so I decided to keep going. I had started to
get pretty cold, even with the jacket liner in, and handgrips and seat
heater on full blast. So I stopped at a rest area to pull out my heated
vest. I ended up having to unload the bike as the power cable is under the
seat, and the seat is under the load. While unpacking, 3 BMW 1150 GS ADV
riders passed by. I gave them the biker wave. After getting all my stuff
loaded again, and dodging 10,000,000 bugs (they descend on you as soon as
you stop) I plugged in the vest. Oh it was heaven. I really want a suit like
The road was the worst yet today. That
being said it really wasnít that bad. It was a road after all. Every time I
would start to think that the road was really bad, a Harley would come by
from the other direction, so I knew he had to ride though it. There was a
stretch of about 12 miles of gravel today. And the majority of the road from Whitehorse to Tok was very bumpy. Well, not
really bumpy so much as full of dips, and Iím talking boing boing dips.
These things were huge, miles and miles and miles of them. The absolute
worst part of the road was also the coolest. On the way to Kluane lake there
was about 3 miles or so of gravel. It was the first time I got to wait on a
Pilot Truck. When I got to the line up of vehicles, everyone was just
stopped. I decided to pass them all and head for the front of the line. I
met the same 3 BMW riders that had passed me earlier. I chatted with one of
them for a few minutes. They are up from California
and are going to tour Alaska. Their bikes were
all duded up with gear and gizmos. I didnít get the chance to dude up my
bike as much as I would have liked. Oh well.
So anyway, back to Kluane Lake.
The Pilot Truck took off and we followed. This was my first big stretch of
loose gravel on the trip. It turned out not to be too bad. After about 3
miles the road cleared up and it was back on paved roads. I went over the
bridge and had to stop on the other side again for more construction. The
flag girl told us to go to the head of the line and wait for the next Pilot
Truck. This part of the road, if you could call it that, was not even a road
yet. They were blasting the hillside to make way for a road, the road making
machines were working everywhere, and the actual road is much like you might
think the beginning stages of a road are. It was not level, there were tire
tracks worn into the dirt. The actual road bed was all mud, dirt, gravel,
and big rocks. But at the same time, it was really cool. I got to ride
through a road construction zone for a road that was just beginning to be
After Kluane Lake it was time for gas at Disaster Bay.
The 3 BMW riders continued on. I had a bottle of water and a snickers after
filling up. I hopped back on the bike and a few miles later ran into them
again as they were leaving a gas stop in Burwash Landing. We rode together
for a while. I was amazed at all their gadgetry. They were taking pics on
the move, they had video, etcÖ They all pulled over for a break and I
decided to keep going. I took some pics on the 12 miles of gravel near the
end of the Yukon. I stopped for gas
one last time in Beaver Creek, the farthest west community in Canada. The 3
BMW riders passed me again. Then it was back on the road for more dips,
gravel, you name it, especially after passing Canadian customs. The road
between the US and Canada ports of entry is not very
good. I wonder if neither wants to maintain it. The border is about 4/5 of
the way between the 2 ports of entry. I stopped and took my Welcome to Alaska photo. The border
crossing was very easy.
After crossing the border I had 78 or so miles to go to
Tok. The scenery was fine, and once again, at every photo op there were
overgrown trees. I met up with the BMW riders in Tok at the campground.
After setting up camp I checked out their bikes. They showed me how they
secure the cameras to the bikes, how they operate them, etcÖ It was very
fascinating. I then had some spaghetti camp food which I must say was
delicious. I took a shower and now Iím writing this log. Itís 11:23pm and it
is still very light outside. Itís hard to get used to all of this light, you
never really get tired.